Ultapani Weekly Market: India-Bhutan Border exchange

 

 

Weekly markets are unique in concept as they are representative of myriad aspects of peoples’ lives. The one held every Saturday at Ultapani of Kokrajhar district in Assam is one of the many border exchanges seen in different parts of North East India that goes back in time to British period when eastern Dooars became important in the process of colonial integration and consolidation of empire. 

 

Though I had been hearing many stories about the historical relations and interactions between the Bhutanese and the Boro as a child, it was for the first time in February 2018 that I got an opportunity to go to the weekly market of Ultapani. As a child I always had this curious question about the name ‘Ultapani’, which literally means ‘opposite water/river’, of course back then I did not understand the geographical functioning of nature. But it is precisely because of this uniqueness of the local river flowing in opposite direction from Gongar Hajw (Bhutan mountains) to the plains of Kokrajhar in Assam that Ultapani became famous among the Boro as the sacred dwelling of spirits! The Gongar people (Bhutanese) were seen by the Boro in the past as barbarous hills people who lived by looting and plundering the plains Boro people. This narrative continued well into late 20th century and changed gradually only with the opening of Bhutan by the young Monarch in recent times. 

 

The visit to the weekly market, therefore, evoked many memories associated with the popular narratives from the past. The drive to Ultapani is about 40 minutes to 1 hour from Kokrajhar town and the way is through the forest areas, which was dreaded by most till a decade ago. The impenetrable character of the forest is very understandable though it is beginning to thin as a result of commercial and illegal exploitation of it. The weekly market is just at the border on Indian side and one round of the market is enough to tell a story about the kind of interactions and exchanges that happen here. For many Bhutanese living across the border, the weekly market is a lifeline, and for the Boros and many other communities living in and around Ultapani, it is a source of livelihood. The goods and commodities sold and exchanged here is reflective of  the history of interactions between peoples and communities. 

 

While rice is one of the major items traded here, it is not the only commodity which draw visitors to this market. Everything and anything that a household needs for consumption in everyday life can be found here, and the Bhutanese are the main customers who descend from the hills to buy weekly stock for their homes and small retails in their own locality. No wonder it is one of the most awaited days for people around here!